Noss Mayo and Newton Ferrers

July 11th, 2015

Noss May hard

The river Yealm is one of the numerous short but vigorous rivers which flow southwards from Dartmoor. Near its junction with the English channel, but up a side creek, are the two small towns facing each other across the water.

Our starting point was the hard by the Ship Inn at Noss Mayo. We chose a neap tide, so there is already plenty of mud exposed. On the other hand, at low neap tide there is still some water in the heavily silted estuary.

Newton Ferrers

Opposite, across Newton Creek, is the prosperous town of Newton Ferrers. The fishing industry has declined but rich commuters, retirees and downsizers have amply made up for that. We turned up the short creek to its tidal limit.

Newton creek limit

Then retraced our route towards the main estuary, passing Noss church to the south.

Noss Mayo church

Gabions

These steep Devon valleys take a lot of maintenance to stop the slope sliding down. The modern stabilisation method is nearly always with gabions, wire cages filled with loose stones, often from far away. One wonders how their durability will compare with the traditional stone walls of chevron-laid elongate stones.

Yealm estuary

We turned north into the steep wooded valley of the Yealm estuary.

Newton wood

Our lunch stop was atop a steep cliff under the trees of the public Newton wood, looking across to the fine garden of Thorn house, with exotic trees.

Tidal limit

From here upstream the estuary is shallow. At the tidal limit a wall stretches across with the river spilling over at the northern end.

Railway residue

Returning along the north shore we passed into a considerable side creek which was once bridged by a railway leading to a quarry. This gave a short relief from the fierce south west wind.

newton creek entrance

On our return, we passed by the entrance to Newton Creek with its abundance of fancy yachts and entered the final reach of sheltered steep woodland before the harsh landscape of the sea coast.

Great Mew Stone

The triangular profile of The Great Mew Stone was three km away, but would be a hard reach in the fierce wind, so we opted for Cellar Beach, one of the few easy landings on this harsh coast. The name probably refers to the fishermen’s equipment sheds, now vanished.

Cellar beach

We surfed back on the breeze through the steep valley but found our departure point too muddy to land without a major cleaning operation before entering our car, so we paddled over to the Newton side for the journey home.


This is probably my last blog entry from the south Devon coast. I have emigrated to Denmark, where I enjoy the gentler seascape and sandy margins of Roskilde fjord. As I near my eightieth year I am losing confidence in my skill to endure and even enjoy the fickle weather and rocky surf-bound shores of the coast of south west England, so the usually gentler waters of the Baltic region will be my paddling area. I thank the members of the Canoe section of the Dartmouth Yacht Club for their good company over more than a decade.

Kayak tour to Farsund, Norway

May 25th, 2015

apta fjord

The Vedbæk kayak club boats and paddlers had a long journey from north of Copenhagen to the southernmost tip of Norway. Several of us took the Oslo boat, then a long car journey, pausing for lunch at Lillesand.

Lillesand

We arrived late at our luxurious lodging at Øyhovda, and looked across to Farsund, about a kilometre across the water.

Base camp

The landscape around Farsund is fjords cut by glaciers in hard rock.

View from the island

The view from a kayak on these waters is mostly geology. As the map below shows, our tours during this week were nearly all within the red shading which is granite and the pink shading which is charnockite, which is a similar hard rock of metamorphic or intrusive origin.

Farsund geology and routes

Our first day started with a road journey with trailer northward along a minor road which tunnelled three and a half km through the rock. We set the boats in at the head of Åptafjord. The fells rise to about 250 m in this region. From a kayak the view of steep rock walls with hanging woods in early spring leaf is dramatic.

wooded cliff

It was surprisingly difficult to find soft deserted landing places so our first lunch was beside the jetty of a tiny harbour at Sæverland.

Lunch, day 1

Unusually for the Vedbæk club outings, we twelve paddlers lived in luxury, with underfloor heated bathrooms and hot water in the shower. The evidence of Norwegian prosperity is everywhere; all the waterside houses were well cared for, and nearly all were empty at this early spring season when the trees where just bursting into leaf and the woodland flowers had just woken up. We took turns at preparing dinner, which required a paddle to the shops in Farsund.

Farsund waterfront

Our second day started from the east, after a tour with the trailer to Bjørnevåg,We paddled west into the archipelago which extends south into open water. We cruised between the islands and again had trouble finding a lunch place. Eventually we perched beside a boat shed and watched a digger constructing a harbour wall of massive granite with impressive virtuosity. He nudged huge irregular granite stones into place so they fitted neatly together, held firm only by gravity.

lunch day 2

Harbour building

There is less than half a metre tidal range here, so the walls were quite low. Some were extraordinarily finely jointed. Here is an elaborate harbour entrance with finely assembled dry stone walling.

harbour bling

The third day was almost entirely in the charnockite intrusion, a straight north south excursion along Framvaren, starting from our lodge. The northward paddle was easy and dramatic, between fells rising over 300 m on either side, and decorated with wind turbines. Here is the view up Logedalen – a deep sided dry valley.

Framvaren side valley

Turning south, the wind was hard against us. Streams plunged steeply into the fjord.

Framvaren cascade

waterfall

We lunched at Listeid, where a paved road leads to a ramp where motor fishing boats can be hauled over a low pass into another fjord to give a nice round trip from Farsund.

lunch day 3

This region is now dedicated to free time but there are traces of relatively recent subsistence agriculture, in the coppiced woodland and in the narrow stone walled fields reverting to woodland.

Ancient fields

The fourth day the wind had abated somewhat so we ventured seaward to Loshavn. This town also was nearly deserted but had opulent architecture from the early nineteenth century. This wealth was amassed during the period of semi-legal piracy (the ‘kapertiden’) on English shipping during the Napoleonic war. After the English had seized the Danish fleet in 1807, the king (also of Norway in those days) gave permission for his seafarers to plunder the Brits, which they did with much success, using rowed cannon boats which could catch becalmed sailing ships by rowing up behind them and threatening the captain’s cabin with a substantial cannon.The evidence for the effectiveness of this technique is clear in the fine architecture of this small harbour, now one of Norway’s most cherished antiquities.

Landing at Loshavn

Loshavn houses

From the fort which guards the harbour one can see the lighthouse on Søndre Katland which guides traffic into Farsund.

Lighthouse on Sondre Katland

The hardy paddlers braved the swell from the open sea to take a bold route past the lighthouse while some of us took a more sheltered route, exploring the sound north of Langøy, where we found an idyllic beach for lunch.

Lunch on Langoy

Just behind the camera is a small harbour with a white painted villa and red painted boat house, just as everywhere else where a small inlet provides shelter.

The fourth day started with a road trip east to Lyngsvåg. Then we paddled south east, still in the granite landscape completely unaltered since the melting of the ice sheet. The exposed skerries show typical granite weathering into huge blocks.

The outer skerries

We passed through Korshavn, which lacks the charm of Loshavn but does have a cafe as compensation. The landing stages were too high for easy landing from a kayak so one has to assume that motor fishing is the main tourist activity around this coast.

Korshavn

We lunched in an inlet just east of Korshavn. Not a charming site, but the rocks shelved relatively gently, compared with much of the shoreline, which reached 30 m deep at one paddle length from the shore.

Day four lunch near Korshavn

The return journey against the wind and choppy water over the fjord mouth was hard. As usual, almost everyone disappeared into the distance, dispersed over an area which would have made a rescue unsuccessful. They waited patiently round a sheltered headland, resting on their carbon fibre wing paddles while I caught up with my timber Greenland paddle and 78 years. Then they were off. I took a five minute rest, a drink and chewed some dried apricot. By that time all but one (my kind minder) were out of sight again.

The last day it rained all day. I gladly shared a walk over the entirely different flat landscape of Lista, starting at the lighthouse.

Lista light

It was still a familiar granite boulder terrain, but underlain by schist rock which is less resistant to erosion and only appears in occasional outcrops on the coastline. The varied terrain and a western exposure which inhibits tree growth results in a rich plant life, though we were too early by several weeks to see it at its most abundant. The flat land supports the now defunct Farsund aerodrome which was heavily fortified in the war with Germany.

ww2 defence

The abundant gun emplacements now afford shelter to the sheep, but they were also bored enough to follow us with an orchestra of tinkling bells.

lista sheep

This was a damp end to our tour. On the way home through Oslo some of us stopped off at the Fram Museum.

Deck of the Fram

The light was dim and variable, imitating the polar night where the Fram drifted with the current under the leadership of Fritjof Nansen in 1893. It was technically very advanced, yet Nansen also was a kayaker. Here is one (or a model of) one of his two kayaks which were lashed together to sail on the arctic ocean.

Nansen's kayak, Fram museum
Photo by Oddur Ingvarsson

Apart from being outdistanced all the time, I enjoyed the trip, and the company, which was fluent enough that I hardly needed to say a word for a week. Particular thanks to Hans Peter, who organised our luxurious lodging and guided our excursions with a light touch, to Claes, whose knowledge of nautical history enlivened our excursions, and to Bjørn and Mikael, who kindly kept me company at a cruising speed which would be fast for my English club.

Tim with Armeria maritima
Photo by Bjørn Eilersen.

Tim

Greenland style paddle – split joint

September 15th, 2014

The arctic people developed their paddles over centuries, but they never had to find space for a 2.3 m long stick in the luggage rack of an overcrowded train. I have been experimenting with various ways of putting a detachable joint in the middle of a wooden paddle.

The conventional way would be to use a cylindrical tube with matching close fitting rod fixed to the other part, and some form of locking mechanism. This has the advantage that the offset between the blade angles can be adjusted, and the disadvantage that a grain of sand can lock the joint unintentionally. However, the Greenland blades are in line.

I have been experimenting with variations on the scarf joint, an ancient technique for connecting timber beams in line by sawing a long diagonal cut in the connecting ends. The problem is to adapt this to repeated connection and separation. The pictures show two methods which work.

First, a one piece paddle is made in a style which I believe originated in the Aleutian Islands. The loom, that is the centre part between the hands, swells to a peak in a plane at right angles to the blade. This thicker central section provides the bulk for a stronger scarf joint. My paddles are made of laminated western red cedar (from standard architectural cladding planks). The reinforced edges are of Paurosa, an African hardwood and the end protection is African Blackwood. Everything is laminated with West System epoxy. However, one could also make a perfectly good paddle from a single plank of Sitka spruce.

While the paddle is under construction, two square rods of hardwood are prepared, about 12 mm square. I used Paurosa from my neighbour Aziz, who deals in African hardwoods, sustainably. Ash would do just as well probably but the tropical woods do not absorb water, while western red cedar does not react much to water, being of very soft constitution. This gives an assembly which does not swell and shrink as the paddle is repeatedly wetted and dried.

Once the paddle is made, two grooves are cut, one on each side, looking at the paddle blade on edge. The groove is barely larger than the hardwood pins. I do not give exact dimensions, because they are not critical; you can judge from the photos, given that the hand grip is the typical 31 x 34 mm oval.

The next step is to saw the paddle in two diagonally, at about 7:1 length to width ratio. The first picture shows the hardwood pin, the groove and the diagonal cut made after the groove has been milled out, or chiselled out if you are patient. I recommend a Japanese saw for the diagonal cut. They cut on the pull stroke and make a clean and narrow cut.

paddle groove and pin

The next picture shows the two pieces cut diagonally. The piece at the bottom shows the pin glued into the groove with epoxy, with two screws to further connect it to the paddle. The upper piece shows how the groove has extended across the cut so that the pin slides into the groove and prevents lateral movement of the ends of the scarf joint. Beyond the end of the groove are two narrow grooves made to take an aluminium channel section, about 12 mm internal size. The pin penetrates into this channel which will prevent opening of the scarf.

glued pin

The next picture is a perspective, showing the aluminium channel in place. It is held by two stainless steel screws and is not glued. This allows for adjustment to give a snug fit to the head of the pin, which has been filed to fit the channel.

channel section

I have added a reflective patch. After all this handwork I do not want to lose the paddle on a night voyage.

The two parts are held together by a stainless steel bolt and self-locking nut. The bolt is set perpendicular to the joint and causes enough friction between the parts that the joint does not slide at all.

For a reserve two part paddle which may need quick assembly on the water far from land I have made an alternative locking system. This is a 3 mm diameter stainless steel staple, It is shown in the picture below holding the two pieces together with both a cross-piece force and also a longitudinal force to keep the pins firmly in the aluminium channels.

staple in place

Notice the third hole to the right. This is a parking place for the staple, to keep it handy and secure.

The next picture shows the staple. Its limbs converge, and so do the brass tubes which it fits into, but the tubes converge less. In this way the staple when pushed in exerts a connecting force but has no tendency to slip back out. The parking tube is also convergent with the other tube on its part of the paddle, but the convergence is greater, so the staple will not slip out, but it will not go so deeply into the tubes before it jams, so it is easy to grasp.

staple exposed

Although I intended this design as an emergency paddle, it has proved utterly reliable, with an insignificant flexibility at the joint, so I tend to use it all the time, which will give me a problem if I need in an emergency to use the bolt connection of the other paddle with gloved fingers stiff with cold. Maybe I will fit a staple system to the other paddle also.

The extra weight of the hardwood and metal bits is around 200 grams. These paddles weigh 1100 grams compared with 900 grams for a professionally made one-piece western red cedar paddle.

There is no patent protection or design protection on this joint – it is an open source design. I cannot imagine it will ever be more than an oddity. But I welcome suggestions for other connection systems. One obvious simplification would be to saw the scarf as a V-section, to prevent lateral movement. Then only a flat metal plate would be needed to stop the joint opening.

Anyway, now I can take the bus to the club boathouse in Dartmouth and go for a paddle. The euro paddle with its two spoons stuck on a rod at an angle to one another is still nearly universal kayak club equipment. But the Greenland style is slowly gaining enthusiasts as its many merits get rediscovered.

The two paddle parts also serve as convenient poles for a low bivouac tarp, or a mosquito net, in Scandinavia and Scotland. The strings will not slide down because of the wedge shape of the scarf. For a higher ridge line, the assembled paddle has a swelling in the middle which also prevents ropes from sliding down. The paddle can also be used as a ridge pole, set between boulders or tied to trees. The aluminium channel can be adapted as a bottle opener. Let me know of other uses.

tim

Dartmouth to Brixham

June 22nd, 2014

The 17 km between Dartmouth and Brixham includes spectacular cliff scenery and varied geology, together with abundant wildlife. On this warm sunny June afternoon we made a promising start in light wind and calm sea. Our destination was Man Sands, a little over half way to Brixham.

Man Sands

We landed on a spacious beach with just one family party enjoying the evening with beach cricket and a barbecue.

drying cairn man sands
(Image by Eugene Craig).

I hastened to use the last rays of sunshine to dry my clothes. The Greenland style paddle is a versatile design, being well suited to jamming into a stone cairn. The other pole is a modern aluminium tube, but I aim to perfect a dividable paddle suited also to holding up bivouacs and clothes lines.

The night started well enough. Then at half past midnight a bunch of youths stumbled by and set up two tents nearby with loud instructions and a tinny ipad adding to the noise. I thumped on the tent to ask for no noise but did not expect any improvement in consideration for other campers, so I grabbed my underlay and sleeping bag and climbed to the top of the hill for a peaceful night under the stars. I think we should not brag about British Values; instead teach courtesy and consideration.

The next day revealed a surprising number of overnight residents of this fairly remote beach. As I climbed down from the hilltop I passed another sparsely equipped elderly bivouaker and politely asked if he was travelling far. That was a mistake since he travelled back in time to his o-level exams, which was the start of a campaign by a malevolent society that resulted in his now being a homeless wanderer. There was also a small tent tucked in round a rocky corner with a couple of seasoned campers who evidently knew accurately the tidal range. As I prepared breakfast with my paddling companion Eugene, a horse appeared with young rider, sedately crossing the sunny beach in the engaging manner of tourist adverts for far off places, such as Ireland. Nevertheless, we decided to blacklist Man Sands as an overnight stop.

Eugene wanted to reach breakfast at the beach cafe in Brixham, before it vanished in favour of the lunch menu. So we started off against a brisk opposing wind, with me fuelled by porridge with strawberries, and Eugene driven mainly by hunger.

basalt sill sharkham

This coast has wonderfully varied geology, nearly continuously exposed in the cliffs. Here, in the stretch west from Sharkham point, a basalt sill has sneaked between the layers of sediment and cooled from the side, maybe by fluids in the zone of weakness now represented by the eroded fissure, so that the cooling cracks developed horizontal hexagonal columns (on the right side of the prominent gully – need to zoom the image).

Eugene at Sharkham

Round the corner of Sharkham point, limestone layers are tilted vertical and crumpled into tight folds. But as one goes west towards the massive reef limestone of Berry Head, the strata become more uniform and gently tilted.

durl head strata

Paddling on beside the dramatic cliffs under the southern fort of the Berry Head defensive architecture, we disturb a flock of guillemots sitting on the water. Their nests are on the cliff above.

guillemots at berry head

This is a high resolution image which just about shows the black backed guillemots standing neatly arranged on the narrow ledges. This is a large colony of birds which only come ashore to breed, so I was sad that we had disturbed them. This nature reserve is exposed to pleasure craft from Brixham. Outside the nesting season, the birds take to the open sea and rock climbers move onto the cliff.

The Berry Head limestone is riddled with caves, inhabited by bats, including the rare greater horseshoe bat, whose roosts here are protected, and also their feeding zones and river valley flypaths. One impressively large cave is accessible from the sea.

berryhead cave deep

There are many other caves which can be explored by narrow boats on calm days. The driftwood branch lodged in this cleft illustrates the variable water level.

narrow cave berry head

A variable water level greeted us as we rounded Berry Head. I had naively assumed that at the neap, the tide race would be easy to penetrate, but the white foaming waves were scary and forced defensive bracing strokes which I have hardly ever needed. The numerous fishing lines deployed from the shore make hugging the shoreline unpopular, further out the wave height increases. The middle route remained rough for much of the way to Brixham breakwater.

Breakfast was still being served at the beach cafe. I had an early lunch of fish pie. We agreed that returning through the raging waters would be unwise with just the two of us. However, our telephone calls for a car to transport us back the short distance to Kingswear went unanswered. A smartphone app showed that we had tackled the tide race at its maximum speed, so that after a leisurely brunch, we might find the sea less intimidating. So it proved. The Berry Head race is the only hazard on this route, in good weather, so we must explore the walking route from St Mary’s bay over to the refreshments of Brixham, and also over the botanical paradise of the nature reserve limestone grassland.

Our return was uneventful, with weak following wind and an opposing tide. The day’s journey of at least 26 km is about my comfort limit as an aging paddler but we took advantage of the slack water through several inner passages along the coast, like this one near Ivy cove.

Ivy cove

tim

Salcombe to Prawle Point

April 13th, 2014

The 5 km stretch of coast between Salcombe north sands and Prawle Point provides varied opportunities for navigating quiet canyons and foaming gaps in the archipelago of bare rock islands. There are sandy beaches at convenient intervals and items of historic interest along the way.

Gara rock lookout

The Gara rock lookout at the top of the slope was used to direct fishermen to shoals of fish. Mercifully out of sight is the recently built hotel, in standard Kingsbridge holiday style with stumpy round towers, no doubt claimed in the planning application to echo the form of the ancient lookout.

Deckler's Island iron mine

Near Deckler’s Island are the remains of a short lived iron mine from the nineteenth century. The grassed over waste tip can be seen on the hillside. Ships used to tie up against the rock on the left of the picture. It is a very exposed mooring so it wasn’t long before a storm put an end to the entire enterprise.

Prawle rock garden

There are many hidden passages parallel to the cliff, broken by gaps to the open sea where the swell bursts through with menacing swirls of rushing water. It is wonderful white water practice, without the bother of swapping car keys to get back to the starting point.

Prawle point

Prawle point also is an island, with a narrow passage which avoids the relatively mild tide race outside. This is the most southerly point of Devon.

Prawle point arch

Just to the east of Prawle point is an impressive arch, beyond which the coast continues as a rocky maze of channels with a low coastal plain behind, backed by the cliffs of an ancient shoreline.

Increasing wind put us off venturing further. Heading back to Salcombe, we stop off for an ice cream at the old lifeboat house on south beach. The motor driven quay heads out to meet the ferry to Salcombe town.

Salcombe south beach pier

It’s a busy day so it takes a while to move passengers both ways without mishap.

Salcombe ferry

A good day on the water, and the car park ticket machine was broken, so we returned home with a few coins.

tim

Dog day at Blackpool

March 16th, 2014

Tide, wind and sun persuaded us that lunch at Blackpool sands was the destination. But we had not checked the Dartmouth district entertainment schedule.

Our mid morning break was at Western Combe cove, which has been entirely cleared of sand by the winter storms.

western combe cove

But the narrow steps up to the coast path were still intact.

western combe steps

Then on under the cliffs to Blackpool, with the rocky contours picked out by the bright March sun.

Our destination was full of dogs, enjoying their last weekend of access to the beach with a ceremony of some sort, where the barking of the dogs was vastly overpowered by the voice of the master of ceremonies, borne by the wind half way back over the sea to Dartmouth. So we queued for our refreshment and then retreated to the steep shingle shore to listen to the repeated sharp grating of the pebbles under the bursting waves, so unforgettably described by Matthew Arnold in ‘Dover Beach’.

blackpool sands

tim p

Farewell to a National Trust sea mark

March 9th, 2014

The little concrete bathing hut at Coleton Fishacre is no more. Another bit of early 20th century architecture destroyed by the waves.

Coleton fishacre bathing hut RIP

That did not stop Alex taking a brief dip in the 9C water. With a resistant relic of the old jetty in the background.

She wasn’t the only mammal in the water. Our young extrovert friend Euston seal made a welcome reappearance after many months.

Photo by Alex Watson

Then we nosed into the cave at Pudcombe cove.

Pudcombe cove cave

The metre high swell gave a pleasant lilt to our paddling and some zest to weaving between the rocks. Our lunch stop was at Scabbacombe.

scabbacombe

Photo: David Jones

The sunshine became hazy as we returned to port after a wonderful spring day on the water.

Scabbacombe head

Tim